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Engineered Garments Spring 2023 Menswear

The task of Senegalese artist Issa Samb was the starting place for Engineered Garments designer Daiki Suzukis spring collection. It had been Sambs installation work specifically that inspired Suzuki, particularly that of a wooden plank covered in found objects, many of them fabric.

How this piece informed the collection is seen through the ambitious, and sometimes overwhelming, mix of patterns and prints. In paisleys, patchworks, and embroidered motifs, and also a classic green camo (an initial for the brand; throughout a preview an associate of the team explained they had shied from it previously since it felt too predictable), the workwear-inspired utilitarian silhouettes created a stimulating visual story much like that of Sambs installation.

A run of different sashiko-stitched (the original Japanese embroidery technique) fabrics was among the collections most compelling groups. The shorts, bombers, jackets, and pants cut in the patch-worked fabric decorated with colorful naive motifs will be the kinds of items that differentiate Engineered garments from its peers.

But as eye-catching because the prints are, especially the florals manufactured in collaboration with Manabu Gaku Inada, its in the solid-color linens, crepes, and cotton poplins where Suzukis distinct cutting sticks out. Most believable was the number of trousers, from straightforward cargos to classic tailored slacks and a run of dropped-crotch pants. Probably the most noteworthy were a couple of extra-wide pleated bontan pants, inspired by the oversized trousers Japanese gangsters used to wear in the 80s.

Why is Engineered Garments interesting as a proposal is that its pieces stick out even more within a complete look. They feel designed to work with one another, idiosyncratic proportions in complicity.

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